Aix-en-Provence

So - it's been almost a week since we arrived in Aix-en-Provence.   As mentioned in the previous post - this is the nicest vacation rental yet.   We're also getting a bit burnt out on travel - so we're focusing on finding the balance between seeing what's here, and having some veg time.   We've managed this by alternating days - one day we go to the beach in Marseille, the next day we take in something cultural.

So - Sunday was a non-beach day.   We explored the markets, the old part of the city, and saw people spending tremendous amounts of money on designer type stuff.  Aix's old city is narrow, windy, cobblestone streets limited to pedestrians - and lined with very high end boutiques.   As a confirmed non-shopper, I just admired how many folks had big bags and the ability to spend more than I budgeted for the entire trip.  I did have fun at the open air veggie market... and we got inspired (plus we knew this kitchen was equipped properly to do serious cooking.)   A stop for veggies, a stop at the boucher, a stop at the boulangerie for some bagettes - and I had the fixins for a really nice pot roast with veggies.

Monday we decided to see the beaches on the "Blue Coast" - that's the area west of Marseilles.  It's known for surfing, bigger waves, etc.   We drove over to Sausset Le Pins.  We found free parking, and beaches with lifeguards.   The beaches were ok - small gravel (vs the stones at Nice.)  But it was close to impossible to get into the water without proper water shoes... there were sharp rocks, coated with algae, as the entry to the waves.  Even the surfers had neoprene booties on.   After a few failed attempts to get into the water, we bailed... We looked for better beaches, heading west towards Carry Le Rouet... no luck.  So we drove to a beach I'd read about in Marseille.  Borely Beach, aka Prado Beach is a family oriented beach...  Small stones (gravel size) so comfortable to lay out on, a quick drop off - but ok sized waves.   The water wasn't as warm as Nice - but it was still refreshing.

Tuesday was another in town day - Explored the markets (multiple were available on Tuesdays), saw the old Cathedral, and then went to Musee Granet.   This is one of the top museums in France.  Not only does it have a decent collection of Cezanne (home town boy) but it had a traveling collection from the San Francisco MOMA - including several Warhols, Lichtensteins, etc.   Very cool.  As usual the boys were bored by the museum.

Wed - back to the beach.  We went straight to Borely Beach.  We followed with a gourmet meal at

Today - was all about the Romans.  We went to Arles, home to an ancient roman amplitheater and an ancient Roman theater.  Then we headed over to Pont du Gard.... Spectacular roman acquaduct.   Unfortunately, the skies opened up and poured on us.

Tomorrow it's back to the beach then on to Spain on Saturday.

Markets in Aix:

Beaches:

Art: - Specifically the portrait of Roy Lichtenstein by Chuck Close at Musee Granet

And Roman Stuff

Finally - FOOD PORN - some of the courses we ate at Ze Bistro - a Michelin listed restaurant we went to for our 'big night out'.

An amazing shrimp starter with a lovely fishy hollandaise sauce

My favorite dish - a savory tart topped with a puree of fish and eggplant, topped with crispy sardines.

I don't remember all the details - but it had a fig bread, baby artichoke, potatoes from Normandy... I think there was a fish as well.

The land based course - a pork run, some seasoned rice, and the most amazing candied tomato

I forgot to get a shot of the cheese course - but this was the desert - Cantaloupe with a lavender sauce, topped with a cornette of glazed sugar filled with an almond whipped cream.